100 Years Ago in Windham

WS Harris in the Exeter Newsletter

Disaster as Searles Tax Windfall Ends | Tragic Drowning in Cobbett’s Pond

WINDHAM, JULY 2, 1915— “The family of John J. Smullen of Dorchester, Mass., are spending the summer vacation in Mrs. Blake’s house. Mrs. Ella Prescott and granddaughter Ella E. Cogger, are moving this week to their new home at Salem Depot, and the purchasers of the Prescott place, Miss Bertha E. Griffin and Mrs. Blanche G. North, of Somerville, Mass., are moving in for the summer.”

“Writs of “extent” levying on the property of the selectman and if necessary other citizens of the town have been served through Sheriff Spinney for the unpaid state tax of $11,000 and county tax of $8,000 due for the year 1914. It will come hard for the town to pay these large sums, but the longer it is fought the more there will be to pay (here is the background from a previous article.) APRIL 13, 1915— The town in special meeting today voted to pay 25 cents per hour for fighting forest fires, to authorize the treasurer to hire money as needed, and to authorize the selectmen to sell the stone crusher. Relative to state and county taxes it was voted that the Selectmen pay the state treasurer the $1,464 which the town claims is the rightful amount due the state, and to adjourn for four weeks until counsel for the town are able to report on the advisability of the state’s claim of $11,000.

I am guessing that this tax dispute had something to do with the Searles property assessment when the castle was his personal residence. MARCH 19, 1915—The inventory of the town as compared with the that year before indicates that the bottom has dropped out of something, the total valuation standing at $732,389, as compared to over six and half millions in April 1913.” The explanation is found in Rural Oasis; “In 1913 Searles was taxed (by the town of Windham) on his money at interest, that is for his liquid assets. This proved to be a windfall for the town because much of his wealth was in cash. The result was that the tax rate dropped to about 55 cents per $1,000 valuation. The town fathers’ reaction was: how can we spend all that money? With the approval of the voters the selectmen decided on a road building program. A steam roller and stone crusher were purchased and construction began at the Windham Depot to appoint three hundred yards south of Londonderry Road and on a portion of Kendall Pond Road north of Old Mill Road. However, the project was ill fated for two main reasons: first the attitude of the construction crew was geared more towards play than work. As one longtime resident explains, baseball was so popular that when the crew felt they needed practice they would do just that, practice, regardless of their work. Secondly, and more importantly was Searles erratic behavior. Upset by the huge tax assessment in 1914 he packed and established residency in New York, which he maintained until his death in 1920. This move left Windham facing a large state assessment with no way of paying it: $25,000 of gold notes were issued and the man whose departure had caused the trouble proceeded to buy half the amount. In addition he purchased the stone crusher for $2,500 while Hudson purchased the steam roller.” And herein lies the lesson for all state and local governments: Taxing the rich to bail out the government will only work if you cut off their feet. The rich are free to move from town to town and state to state when the tax burden placed on them become unbearable. This was the lesson that Windham learned the hard way in 1915.

“One of the saddest of drowning accidents occurred in Cobbett’s Pond Friday noon, June 25, when Roydon S. Pierce, of Dorchester, Mass., sixteen years of age, lost his life by the overturning of a canoe. Only the day before, young Pierce had come with his cousin, Edmund G. Wilson, to the Wilson cottage, to spend a week or two. While paddling about the pond alone, in some way he fell into the water, and although a good swimmer and not far from shore he was unable to reach the shore or canoe and sank in about twelve feet of water. His friends, Edmund Wilson, James and Howard Upham, hearing his cries for help, put off from shore with all possible speed and, diving, brought the body to the surface and to shore at Haseltine’s point. They, with the help of others worked for nearly and hour in unavailing attempts of resuscitation, until the arrival of Dr. E.A. Wade, of Salem Depot, who pronounced the case hopeless. Later in the day the medical referee, Dr. L.G. Dearborn, of Derry, with an undertaker, came and took charge of the body. Royden was the second of three sons of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Pierce, residing at 114 Rosseter Street, Dorchester, and was in his seventeenth year. He would have graduated from the Dorchester High School next year. A slight acquaintance was sufficient to reveal his exceptionally bright and winning personality. He was an attendant at the Harvard Congregational Church of Dorchester, where funeral services were held on Sunday afternoon. A pocket edition of the Book of Proverbs was found floating on the water where Royden sank, which it is thought he had been reading. The loss of this promising young life in so sudden and sad manner, with assistance in sight but too far away to be availing until too late, has cast gloom over the whole North Shore colony and all who knew the young man. The hope of immorality is the only thing that gives meaning to this present existence and unlocks its mysteries.” W.H.S. It is rather ironic that he was reading Proverbs when he stumbled out of the canoe into the water since one section reads as follows:

“My son, do not let wisdom and understanding out of your sight, preserve sound judgement and discretion; they will be life for you, an ornament to grace your neck. Then you will lie down in safety, and your foot will not stumble. When you lie down, you will not be afraid; when you lie down, your sleep will be sweet. Have no fear of sudden disaster or of the ruin that overtakes the wicked, for the Lord will be at your side and will keep your foot from being snared.” Proverbs 3: 21-26

Canonbie, Canobie, Cannobie

How the Ethos of the Border Clans and Reivers Impacted America

The Border Reivers Spirit of Independence

So you may be wondering what in the world does the history of the border clans and reivers have to do with the history of both Windham and America. The border clans and families moved from the “debatable lands,” first to Northern Ireland and then to America. Many came to this area of New Hampshire. Independence Day, might just be a good time to appreciate how much the Scots-Irish influenced the ethos of America. It all comes down to this; the border Scotch held honor above all, loyalty to family above all, and had an ingrained sense of individualism that made them rebel against centralized authority. The men of the borders prized their independence above all things, including the inconvenient laws issued by the “mere kings” of Scotland and England. For the most part they became small “d” democrats supporting the rebellion against King George III and backing presidents like Andrew Jackson who fought the power of the eastern elites.

“In many ways, their culture became American culture. The Scots-Irish (sometimes called the Scotch-Irish) are all around you, even though you probably don’t know it. They are a force that shapes our culture, more in the abstract power of emotion than through the argumentative force of law. In their insistent individualism, they are not likely to put an ethnic label on themselves when they debate societal issues. Some of them don’t even know their ethnic label, and some who do don’t particularly care. They don’t go for group-identity politics any more than they like to join a union. Two hundred years ago the mountains built a fierce and uncomplaining self-reliance into an already hardened people. To them, joining a group and putting themselves at the mercy of someone else’s collective judgment makes as much sense as letting the government take their guns. And nobody is going to get their guns. Quote from “Born Fighting: How the Scots-Irish Shaped America” written by James Webb.

Many fought for the South, but most gained no advantage from slavery and were not a part of the planter class, yet they fought tenaciously for “states rights.” Many more fought for the North. The hero of World War One, Alvin York was a pacifist from the hills of Tennessee, of Scotch-Irish and English extraction. And of course, the hero of the race to the moon, Neil Armstrong, was a direct descendant of the independent spirited reiver clans. It really is sad, that this county is so ignorant of its history, and that American public opinion is so easily swayed by the persuaders. The border reivers and the Scots-Irish immigrants would be appalled if they could see the strong hand that now rules America from above and the dependence on the government that personifies so many American lives. Happy Fourth of July.

Neil Armstrong on the Moon.

Canonbie, Canobie, and Cannobie

Johnnie Armstrong

Johnnie Armstrong Meets the King

Johnnie Armstrong of Ginockie was a powerful leader who ruled a vast area along the Scottish Border. He is perhaps one of the best known figures among the Border reivers. A stirring ballad was written about him soon after his death and he was further romanticized in the nineteenth century writings of Sir Walter Scott.

Johnnie became very rich and powerful and could put 3000 horsemen in the field. Very little is known of his early life but it was rumored that he made a fortune while at sea then returned to the Esk River Valley and became a powerful leader.

Armstrong became known as “Black Jok” because he specialized in blackmail or black rent. “It was said that there was not one English place of prominence between his home at Hollows Tower, known as Gilnockie and east Newcatles which did not pay protection money to Black Jok.” The “rent” was paid to insure they would be protected from raids by both Armstrong and other Border reivers. Armstrong operated for some years under the protection of Robert, the 5th Lord Maxwell who was the Scottish West March Warden. The six Marches consisted of three on the Scottish side of the border and three on the English. The Marches were established by Scotland and England to supervise the unruly border areas. Maxwell, was one of Scotland’s great feudal barons. He was in a long lasting feud with the Johnstone Clan. Maxwell had engaged the Armstrongs as extra troops the fight the Johnstones. He subsequently owed the Armstrongs protection. Although responsible for keeping the reivers under control, Maxwell “looked the other way” as the Armstrongs and their allies, the Nixons, Elliots and Crosiers went about their reiving. Black Jok burnt Netherby in Cumberland in 1527, in return for which William Dacre, 3rd Baron Dacre burnt him out at Canonbie in 1528; and Gavin Dunbar, the Archbishop of Glasgow as well as Chancellor of Scotland, intervened with an excommunication for Armstrong. In a way the power and wealth of Armstrong was an embarrassment for the young King James V. Maxwell began to fear the power of Johnnie Armstrong and his lack of loyalty. Henry VIII was putting diplomatic pressure on James V to put an end to the lawlessness that was rampant in the Borders region. At the time there was a truce of sorts between England and Scotland and Black Jok and other reivers flouted the peace with their lucrative harassment of the English Border. James V wanted to subjugate the power of the Scottish Border clans. James V moved south to the Scottish Borders in June 1530 intent on proving to the Border clans that it was he who ruled in Scotland, including the Borders. He first executed other reiving clan leaders and then headed south to deal with Armstrong. It is said that James V tricked Armstrong into meeting him at Carlenrig. Some sources say that a “loving letter” was sent inviting him to hunt with the king. Whatever the case, a shrewd Johnnie Armstrong would never have agreed to meet the king without a guarantee of safe conduct.

According to the “Ballad,” Armstrong made a great show, dressed in his finery as would have befitted any court and accompanied by an entourage of about twenty-four Lairds and retainers, including Elliots, Littles and Irvines. Perhaps the confusion over the actual numbers hanged with Armstrong, twenty-four, thirty-six or fifty, stems whether or not the retainers were also hanged. Johnnie Armstrong sported a hat from which hung nine gold and silver tassels, and but for the sword of honor and a crown, he could have been King. When it became clear that he was to be hanged John Armstrong declared himself a subject of James his liege and stated he had only raided the English. The most famous lines, oft quoted by Sir Walter Scott, were uttered by Armstrong, when the extent of the King’s duplicity was revealed:

“To seek hot water beneath cold ice
Surely it is a great folly
I have asked grace at a graceless face,
But there is none for my men and me.”

He is also reputed to have said, “Had I known, Sire, that you would take my life this day, I should have stayed away and kept the Border in spite of King Henry and you, both. For I know that Henry Tudor would be a blithe man this day to know that John Armstrong was condemned to die. Which proves who lacks in judgement, does it not?” Nevertheless, all was in vain as he and his men were led to the trees around Carlenrig and hanged from the back of their mounts.

Legend has it that the trees at Carlenrig, where Armstrong and his followers were hanged, withered and died, and none have grown there since.”
In the aftermath of the hanging, Robert, Lord Maxwell, who came to fear Armstrong’s burgeoning power benefited from Armstrong’s death. On 8th July 1530, three days after the death, Maxwell received into his hands all the property that had belonged to Johnnie Armstrong.

Being the reivers that they were, you can be sure that the Armstrongs had their revenge. Twelve years later, in 1542, James V was to die, some say of a broken heart, following the rout of the Scottish army at the Battle of Solway Moss which took place eight days after the birth of his daughter, Mary, Queen of Scots. Some of the Armstrongs joined the English army in dealing a mortal blow to the Scots as they vainly tried to cross the river Esk at Longtown. It was the Armstrongs who picked off the remnants of the Scots army as they fled in panic north through Liddesdale.

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Canobie, Canonbie, Cannobie

Part 2: Lochinvar

Lochinvar and “fair” Ellen

“Lochinvar” is a ballad with eight six-line stanzas. It tells the story of a Scottish knight, “young Lochinvar,” who is described as faithful and true but who arrives at the wedding of his romantic interest to steal her away for his own. Of course, our interest in the poem is that it is set in and around Canonbie Scotland. The brave knight swims across the River Esk, which runs though Canonbie.

Netherby Hall is a real place. “For four centuries the Graham family nurtured and developed Netherby and  its estates. Theirs is a tale of ‘rogues to riches’, steeped in the history of the Borders with its notorious Reivers and a unique part of the country that went by the forbidding name of the Debatable Land.” It appears the Netherby Grahams descended from nobility but sometime before 1492, the King of Scots, probably James III, got fed up of Lang Will’s business practices. “He was well known for his Reiver ways of extracting rents, mails, for land he did own but he went too far when he stole lands from the Earl of Morton. Put to the horn… he was eventually forced to flee with his family to the Debateable Land.” It was a British badlands of sorts, an area where any person who was out with the law could be killed without any redress on the killer,” a place for the Grahams to find refuge. “As such it was home to some of the most notorious Border Reivers, the Grahams among them. Lang Will’s family prospered. By the 1540s, made up of at least six sons,  they had half a dozen peel towers and the  eldest son, Richard, owned Netherby.  Lang Will’s rent collecting business… raised vast amounts of money, 100,000 merks according to one source. They were allies of the Armstrongs and linked by marriage to the Johnstones…”

Netherby Hall and Coop House

O, Young Lochinvar is come out of the west;
Through all the wide border his steed was the best;
And save his good broad-sword he weapon had none;
He rode all unarmed, and he rode all alone.
So faithful in love, and so dauntless in war,
There never was knight like the young Lochinvar.

He staid not for brake, and he stopped not for stone;
He swam the Eske river, where ford there was none;
But, ere he alighted at Netherby gate,
The bride had consented, the gallant came late:
For a laggard in love, and a dastard in war,
Was to wed the fair Ellen of brave Lochinvar.

So boldly he entered the Netherby Hall,
‘Mong bridesmen, and kinsmen, and brothers, and all;
Then spoke the bride’s father, his hand on his sword,
( For the poor craven bridegroom said never a word, )
“O come ye in peace here, or come ye in war,
Or to dance at our bridal, young Lord Lochinvar?”
 
“I long wooed your daughter, my suit you denied —
Love swells like the Solway, but ebbs like its tide —
And now I am come, with this lost love of mine,
To lead but one measure, drink one cup of wine;
There are maidens in Scotland more lovely by far,
That would gladly be bride to the young Lochinvar.”
 
The bride kissed the goblet — the knight took it up;
He quaffed off the wine, and he threw down the cup.
She looked down to blush, and she looked up to sigh,
With a smile on her lips, and a tear in her eye.
He took her soft hand, ere her mother could bar —
“Now, tread we a measure ! ”    said young Lochinvar.

So stately his form, and so lovely her face,
That never a hall such a galliard did grace;
While her mother did fret and her father did fume,
And the bridegroom stood dangling his bonnet and plume;
And the bride-maidens whispered,  ” ‘T were better by far
To have matched our fair cousin with young Lochinvar. ”
 
One touch to her hand and one word in her ear,
When they reached the hall door, and the charger stood near
So light to the croup the fair lady he swung,
So light to the saddle before her he sprung !
“She is won !     we are gone, over bank, bush, and scaur;
They’ll have fleet steeds that follow,” quoth young Lochinvar
 
There was mounting  ‘mong Græmes of the Netherby clan;
Forsters, Fenwicks, and Musgraves, they rode and they ran
There was racing and chasing on Cannobie Lea,
But the lost bride of Netherby ne’er did they see.
So daring in love, and so dauntless in war,
Have ye e’er heard of gallant like young Lochinvar

Cannobie Lea on River Esk

Canobie, Canonbie, Cannobie

Part 2: Sir Walter Scot and Border Ballards

Canobie, Scotland

Sir Walter Scott was one of the most influential writers, in the English language, during the nineteenth century. Today, most, including myself, know very little about the life and work of this writer. He is responsible for one of the most vivid lines from my childhood, one that is indelibly seared into my conscience. It is two lines from the epic poem Marmion written in 1808, which are one of the most quoted excerpts from Scottish poetry which is derived from Canto VI, XVII :

Oh, what a tangled web we weave
When first we practice to deceive!

Another quote that I’ve heard often but didn’t ever know where it came is, “Blood is thicker than water,” which comes from Guy Mannering, Ch. 37 (1815). Then there is this choice saying from, The Heart of Midlothian’, Ch. 8 (1818). Revenge is the sweetest morsel to the mouth, that ever was cooked in hell. And then this from The Talisman, Ch. 24 (1825). A miss is as good as a mile.

Sir Walter Scott

Most important to us here is the fact that the Scott’s were an old Scottish borders family. “Scott spent his childhood years in Edinburgh, with occasional extended visits to his grandfather Robert Scott’s farm in Tweeddale in the Borders, where he became versed in his family’s history, and in Borders culture in general.” (BBC) As a boy, youth and young man, Scott was fascinated by the oral traditions of the Scottish Borders. He was an obsessive collector of stories, and developed an innovative method of recording what he heard at the feet of local story-tellers using carvings on twigs, to avoid the disapproval of those who believed that such stories were neither for writing down nor for printing.” (Wiki) “He attended the famed Edinburgh High School, and then followed in his father’s wake by taking a law degree at Edinburgh University, being called to the Bar in 1792. At 25 he began writing, first translating works from German then moving on to poetry.

In 1797 he married the daughter of a French refugee, Charlotte Carpenter, with whom he had four children. Five years later, he published a three-volume set of collected Scottish ballads, The Minstrelsy of the Scottish Borders. This was an early indicator of his interest in Scotland and history from a literary standpoint.” (BBC)
“Scott was a poet, novelist, ballad-collector, critic and man of letters, but is probably most renowned as the founder of the genre of the historical novel, involving tales of gallantry, romance and chivalry. In 1802-03, Scott’s first major work, Minstrelsy Of The Scottish Border appeared. As a poet Scott rose into fame with the publication of The Lady of the Lake (1810), Rokeby (1813), and The Lord of the Isles (1815). With their romantic, often sublime, depictions of landscape, they fuelled the taste for the ‘picturesque’ and encouraged the trend for the inclusion of Scotland in the ‘Grand Tour,’ the cultural European tour that enticed much of the travel-minded gentry in the 18th and 19th centuries.” (BBC)

His novels and poetry are still read, and many of his works remain classics of both English-language literature and of Scottish literature. Famous titles include Rob Roy, The Lady of the Lake, Waverley, The Heart of Midlothian and The Bride of Lammermoor. Scott’s novel Ivanhoe was required reading in many American high schools into the 1950’s.

Next week we will return to our main interest, which resides in the epic poem Marmion, in which are found the lines about the hero Lochinvar. The setting for this poem is the borders of Scotland near Canonbie.